This July, restaurateur Dom Hamdy (Bistro Freddie, Crispin, Bar Crispin, Canal) and chef Keiran Mustafa (previously BiBi and The Harwood Arms) will launch Kismet, a new restaurant paying homage to the traditional meyhanes of Istanbul and Northern Cyprus. Opening above The Globe Tavern in Borough on Thursday 16 July, Kismet takes on a year-long residency in a space that has previously homed concepts including Chishuru and Tou.
The meyhane, a traditional, local tavern or pub with live music, has long been one of the great social institutions of Istanbul and North Cyprus where food, drink, music and conversation flow, and food arrives in waves rather than courses. Kismet brings that spirit to Borough, built around meze and mangal-grilled kebabs available a la carte or as a set menu for £48.
To start, expect meze dishes from £7, like Zeytinyağlı Taze Fasulye (braised green beans in olive oil), Atom (buffalo milk yoghurt with chilli butter), Bulgur Köftesi (fried, stuffed bulgur wheat dumplings) and Yaprak Ciğer (fried lamb’s liver). Then the charcoal grill takes over with kebabs from £18, including Kuzu Şiş (lamb leg with tail fat) and Şeftali Kebabı (a Cypriot minced lamb and beef kebab wrapped in caul fat), served with sides including Meyhane Pilavı, a much-loved traditional Turkish dish made with bulgur wheat and tomatoes, and Patates Kizartmasi (fried Cyprus potatoes). Desserts include Fıstıklı Dondurma (pistachio ice cream) and a syrup laden Baklava.
Raki, Türkiye’s anise-spiced national spirit, sits at the heart of the drinks list, with several styles on offer by the glass or bottle. Regulars are encouraged to buy a bottle and leave it behind on Kismet’s shelf, ready and waiting for their next visit – a nod to the meyhane custom of treating the table, and the bar, like a second home. The wine list is intentionally concise and highly curated, focusing predominantly on producers from across Türkiye’s diverse wine-growing regions. Showcasing both indigenous grape varieties and internationally recognised grapes grown on Turkish soil, it offers a considered introduction to one of the world’s oldest and most exciting wine-producing countries.
Producers include Sevilen, one of Türkiye’s most respected wineries, and Kuzubağ, a female-led team working with native Aegean varietals. Characterised by freshness, minerality and salinity, these wines pair naturally with the richness and smoke of charcoal-grilled meats and meze. Bottles start from £38, with several wines available by the glass from £7.50. Alongside the wine list sits Basketcase, a bottled lager brewed in partnership with Coalition Brewery and named after the men once employed by Istanbul bars to carry particularly enthusiastic patrons home in person-sized baskets strapped to their backs. Non-alcoholic options include Uludağ Gazoz, the iconic citrus Turkish soda and Ayran, a fermented yoghurt drink.
A traditional Turkish musician will play live weekly, adding to the warm, convivial atmosphere that defines the meyhane table.
The room itself has been designed by Studio Adra in collaboration with Hamdy and Mustafa, drawing on the understated, well-worn character of Istanbul’s meyhanes: dark wood finishes against nicotine stained paint, white tablecloths, low ambient lighting, black and white photography and traditional lace window dressings combine for an interior that feels warm, classic and lived-in from day one.
“Growing up in a Turkish-Cypriot family, food was always at the centre of gatherings,” says Mustafa. “The meyhane has long been one of my favourite expressions of hospitality; generous, lively and built around sharing.”
“I’m thrilled to be bringing Kismet to life with Keiran,” adds Hamdy. “Having worked together on a number of projects and having spent a significant time together in both Istanbul and Northern Cyprus, we share a deep appreciation for the culture, hospitality and traditions that inspire Kismet. What excites me most is that we’re creating something genuinely distinctive – our own interpretation of the traditional Turkish meyhane, drawn from Keiran’s heritage, but thoughtfully reimagined for London. It’s also particularly meaningful for me to be returning to Borough Market, where my journey in food began more than a decade ago. To launch a new restaurant here feels like a full circle moment.”
Kismet opens on Thursday 16 July, with reservations now live.